Hearing “The Partisan” in St. Malo

I don’t remember ever hearing Leonard Cohen’s song “The Partisan” before. While we were vacationing for a few days in France, I awoke one morning and asked Apple Music to play songs. It played this one. Before you read on, listen to the song:


It seems Apple Music knew that

I woke up today in St. Malo

(in Brittany in France)

a city bombed to rubble in the war

the Great War

by American bombing

in the months after D-Day

because that was the only way

or so we thought

to take it back from the fascists

from the Nazis

after which surviving residents

refused to build it new from scratch

but loving its very stones and dust

and sifting through to find every reusable brick

rebuilt the place as it had been before

beautiful

as a city joined together to itself

such that I an American

a dweller among people who’ve forgotten

both the cause and the course of the war

the Great War

the perennial war

that comes again and again

upon those who forget its cause and its course

might vacation here

and walk upon its walls

and glimpse a bit of the light

a refracted reflected recalled ray of

all the light we cannot see.


Americans: let’s sort our own fascism

our own Nazism

while we can

because you know we have no Maginot

and no other America will come

to bomb our Nazis out of us

to bomb us out of us

and if one did

survivors could not build our city back

like St. Malo.


Its walls are patrolled day and night against invaders,
    but the real danger is wickedness within the city.

Psalm 55:10, NLT


Written August 12, 2024, in the Hotel Ajoncs d’Or in St. Malo, during a visit inspired by our reading of Anthony Doerr’s hauntingly beautiful novel, All the Light We Cannot See. Revised August 20, 2024, back home in Caledonia, Michigan.

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